Arguably Italy’s most fascinating region, Sicily is a magnificent, mountainous island in the middle of the Mediterranean. Its charismatic coastline, washed by the azure waters of the Ionian and Tyrrhenian seas, is studded with fabulous cities and fortified clifftop villages.
A Sicily travel guide such as this one will help you capitalize on the island’s incredible food and wine scene; catch you up on its intriguing history; and suggest some of the most beautiful beaches in Italy to discover while on your visit.
Why Visit Sicily

Greek Theater of Taormina
Visit Sicily for a destination that has many of the outward appearances of Italy—gelato, aperitivo, robust body language—but brings with it a rich, complex culture that is entirely its own.
Sicily’s impressively long history has left it littered with stunning historic sites. These include the Greek Theater of Taormina, Syracuse’s Ear of Dionysus, and the Black Madonna of Tindari, to name a few.
The east coast is where you’ll find the greatest concentration of must-see spots, overlooked by the handsome, often-smoking cone of Etna. The cities and towns found here include Syracuse, Taormina, Messina, and Catania. The island’s capital—the dazzling, palazzi-crowded Palermo—is found in the north-east.
A prime example of how Sicilians are Italians with a twist is seen in their commitment to their religious festivals. There’s an intense dimension to these that you might not encounter on the mainland, such as the flagellation element in the Misteri di Marsala.

Misteri di Trapani
Or the 24-hour nature of the Misteri di Trapani procession that has swayed through the west coast city of Trapani every Easter since 1612.
Whatever you want your Sicily trip to be—a culinary tour of restaurants overlooking moonlit coves, walks through wildflower-strewn ruins, or an exploration of shooting locations in honor of Don Corleone, or all of the above—it’s yours for the taking.
History & Culture

Messina
Populated for over 10,000 years, Sicily has always been a land that people have been keen to get to. The Phoenicians, the Greeks, and the Romans all shaped its early history. With its strategic location in the Mediterranean, the locals, high up in their fortified hill towns, became used to spotting the fleets of would-be conquerors cresting the glittering waves.
If you look at Sicily’s flag, you’ll find yourself staring into the face of the gorgon, Medusa. She first appeared there in the 13th century. Alas, her fearsome visage did little to ward off the seemingly endless succession of those intent on landing on Sicily’s buttercup-yellow sands.
During the Roman era, this beautiful island was called the “granary of the empire” thanks to its fertile soil and agricultural output. The medieval era offered little in the way of administrative continuity for the indigenous Sicilians. The Arabs, Normans, and Spanish had their stint in charge, with all leaving their stamp on the island’s culture.

Catania
During the time of the Grand Tour, Sicily was an essential stop. Aristocratic Europeans were drawn to its unique palimpsest architecture, near-intact ruins such as the Greek temple of Segesta, and its exotic appeal. Among the more famous names who visited included the philosopher Goethe, Edward VII of England, and the emperor, Kaiser Wilhelm II.
In the 19th century, it joined the Kingdom of Italy. However, the rise of the Sicilian Mafia—among other negative influences—stymied the island’s development. Post World War II, Sicily enjoyed a positive upward swing in terms of modernization and development. It ranks as one of the top regions that mainland Italians like to invade during their vacations.
Tips for Visiting Sicily

Greek Theater of Taormina
With such a long tradition of visitors—seeking to conquer, or just seeking a cocktail—Sicily’s towns and cities are well-equipped for travelers. As you’d expect, this is less the case in the less visited interior, except for more notable areas such as the Val di Noto.
You’ll find that any Sicily travel guide will recommend a car for exploring the island. While there are buses and trains available, the service can be patchy, especially outside of the main cities.
If you’ve traveled in mainland Italy before, you might find the more reserved welcome in smaller towns and villages a surprise. Don’t let this put you off—Sicilians can be just as hospitable and ready to point you to a cash machine or gas station as their mainland cousins.
Not during siesta time, however. In the early afternoon, roughly between 1 pm and 4 pm, the Sicilians like to take a rest. Restaurants will still be open for lunch past 1 pm, although if you’re on a road trip it’s best to call ahead to check.

Sicilian pizza
A note on pizza in Sicily: it’s considered an evening dish, so you’re unlikely to find it for lunch outside of Palermo. This makes sense when trying one of the Sicilian pizzas that comes studded with roast potatoes. A delicious carb-on-carb treat, managing to finish it will set you up for a good night’s sleep.
And, much like a pizza covered in potatoes, it’s wise not to try to experience all of Sicily in a single visit. Take your time. Linger over your granita, sketch Mount Etna from Taormina’s clifftop piazza, and sip your Spritz as you people-watch in Ortigia’s wedge-shaped main square.
Things to Do & Attractions in Sicily
Catania

Catania
Catania was flattened by a disastrous earthquake in 1693 before being rebuilt in a baroque style reminiscent of Milan, Italy’s northern Italian fashion capital. The city’s motto is “From the ruins, I emerge stronger”, and you’ll be inclined to agree as you walk the basalt sidewalks of this vibrant city, located on the island’s southeast coastline.
Touring its historic center, you’ll come across its famously boisterous La Pescheria fish market, explore the artifacts in the 13th-century Castello Ursino, and window shop in its artisan boutiques. While you’re here, you have to try a bowlful of pasta alla Norma in the city in which it was invented.
Syracuse

Syracuse
Once the capital of Magna Grecia, Syracuse is one of the best places to visit in Sicily. The city has a stunning historic center built of white limestone and an impressive selection of historic sites including the Tomb of Archimedes.
Established in 734 BC, this coastal city’s historic center of Ortigia is one of the most elegant and atmospheric corners of Sicily. Its cellar restaurants serve sophisticated cuisine alongside judiciously compiled wine lists, while by day its mozzarella-white streets are fabulous for shopping high-end boutiques and people-watching from sidewalk cafés.
Just outside of Ortigia, on your way to the Neapolis Archaeological Park, you’ll pass the burial site of Syracuse’s most famous son, Archimedes, as well as its well-preserved Greek Theater. The park itself was once an ancient limestone quarry that has evolved into the jasmine-fragranced Latomia del Paradiso gardens.

Ear of Dionysus, Syracuse
Here you’ll also find the remarkable Ear of Dionysus—a cave/prison where the tyrant would reportedly eavesdrop on his captives from above.
Taormina

Taormina
The quintessential Italian seaside resort, Taormina sits on cliffs overlooking Isola Bella, one of Sicily’s most beautiful beaches. Set on a mountainside, its flagstoned lanes are lined with upscale boutiques and handsome palazzi somehow crammed into this charming town.
It’s a place for sunset aperitivi, looking out over the Bay of Naxos, and feeling like the luckiest person in the world for being here.
Orange trees shade its weathered stairways, fragrancing your strolls to its ocean-view park or while you’re ascending to the third Century Greek Theater.

Greek Theater of Taormina
Perched above the town, the theater is a wondrous piece of the island’s heritage with views of Mount Etna from its tiered stone seats. It’s still operational, so check the website to try to catch an unforgettable opera experience.
Make a day trip to Castelmola while you’re in Taormina. This village, once a Norman fortress, is a must if you’re in the area.
Mount Etna

Silvestri Craters, Mount Etna
More than just a backdrop for your photographs, Sicily is famous for Mount Etna. For much of the year, it acts as a national park with Sicilian families barbecuing artichokes and mutton, or setting off on pine-scented hikes or, in winter, ski jaunts.
Around its circumference, neat rows of vines tap into the remarkably fertile soil. Fruit in neighboring orchards swells to tantalizing proportions.
The vineyards welcome visits and a tasting, if you have the time, is essential. Or get closer to Etna’s volcanic self with a tour of the dormant Silvestri Craters.
Messina

Messina
While many a Sicily travel guide would overlook Messina as a destination, this would be a mistake. The gateway to Sicily from Reggio Calabria, this low-key port city offers a chance to discover a more authentic side to Sicilian life.
There’s plenty to see here, beyond the galaxy of gelato flavors on the seafront promenade. Messina has the world’s most ornate mechanical and astronomical clock; arrive at noon in the Piazza Duomo for the full effect. There’s also the Carrara marble Fontana di Orione and the town’s remarkable Monumental Cemetery, which makes for a serene walk amid beautiful sculptures with coastal views.
Food & Drink

Pasta alla Norma
Flavors and ingredients from Arabic, including citrus, spices, and rice, Spanish—tomatoes and potatoes—and other European influences help spin Sicily’s take on Italian cuisine into a new dimension. Keystone ingredients include fish and Sicily’s flavorsome produce such as artichokes, capers, and eggplant.
Beginning with breakfast, consider trying granita. This scoop of shaved ice, available in flavors like zingy lemon and sweet peach, is a popular warm-weather option for the Sicilians. Find it heaped in silver tubs in cafes and beneath the striped awnings of specialist granita sellers. It’s usually served with a buttery brioche bun, with sweet ricotta as an added extra.

Sfinciuni
Sfinciuni is a unique Sicilian take on pizza. More popular in Palermo, you’ll find this cousin of the deep-dish style for sale as urban street food. Fluffy yet crisped with olive oil, these rectangular pizza squares evolved from the flatbread of the ancient Greeks.
Another on-the-go option is panelle—a chickpea fritter—and arancini—the island’s ubiquitous fried rice ball.
If you’re visiting Catania, your primi of choice should be pasta alla Norma. This pasta dish, named for a Bellini opera, contains delicious salty, garlicky, slightly caramelized flavors within its eggplant and ricotta-tumbled tomato sauce. Traditional Catanian restaurants will stake their reputation on a good Norma, however, Trattoria da Antonio is revered.

Involtini di pesce spade
Any Sicily travel guide would be remiss not to include swordfish. In the Messina Strait, a swordfish-hunting tradition persists with roots in the Bronze Age. Look out for involtini di pesce spade—a preparation that sees juicy slices of swordfish rolled with a garlic and parsley crumb and grilled.

Cannoli
While it can sometimes feel like tiramisu is the only dessert Italians ever eat, on the Sicilian dessert trolley, you’ll usually find a wider homegrown selection. Granita is on offer, or there’s the primly gorgeous, wine-soaked cassata cake. And of course, there’s cannoli—those deep-fried pastry finger traps filled with sweet, flavored ricotta cheese.
To finish your meal, you’ll usually be offered marsala—a classic digestif in Sicily. Hailing from the eponymous town on Sicily’s west coast, this fortified wine is like a glass of brown sugar, dates, and spice.

Marsala
Sicily’s cuisine becomes even more transcendent when paired with its local wines. The wine scene here is increasingly sophisticated, with plenty to try, from wines grown in the volcanic soils of Mount Etna to crisp whites characterized by coastal saline notes.
If you’re a wine lover, you’re sure to become well acquainted with the two main Sicilian grape varieties—fruity Nerello Mascalese and the more peppery Nero d’Avola. Also look out for outstanding natural wines, especially those produced by Frank Cornelissen.
Best Time to Visit

Messina
With skiing on a snowy Mount Etna in winter and June highs of 75.9°F (24.4°C), Sicily is truly a year-round destination.
However, this Sicily travel guide recommends that you go there in the fall. This is an island of narrow lanes and bijou piazzi, and a trip in the fall avoids the crowds and the occasional rain shower. With average daily highs hovering around 68.8°F (20.5°C) by October, it’s a brilliant time to discover the island’s Grecian temples and colorful Italian cities.

I Laghetti di Marinello
Best of all, the water temperature around the coast remains pleasant enough for a swim until mid-September. I Laghetti di Marinello, near Tindari, is an ever-popular spot for bathing.
Visit Sicily in spring for a similarly temperate outlook, although the water doesn’t really warm up until around mid-May.
May temperatures in Messina are similar to those in October, with the added attraction of Sicily’s abundant wildflowers blooming amid fallen Corinthian columns and brightly spotting the obsidian soil of the Silvestri craters.

Catania
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